Belize - Day 9

Oh my gosh - we had the most amazing day ever today! We scheduled a day-trip to the Actun Tunichil Muknal, or ATM, cave about 60 miles outside of Belize City. Andrew had read about this cave on line and many say it is a sight not to be missed. We took the 7:30 am water taxi to Belize City. At least it was supposed to be the 7:30 am taxi. It actually didn't arrive in Caye Caulker until about 8 am, so we were almost 45 minutes late arriving in to BC. We were met by our guide for the day, Ivar. He loaded us in to his Rav4 and we were off. He brought us each a ham & cheese filled croissant and juice, so we munched as we drove.

In about an hour, we turned off on to a rough dirt road and pulled along side a Land Cruiser. Inside were Landy (Orlando), the ATM cave certified guide, and a couple from Ontario, Jonathan and Hazel. There are only 12 guides in Belize certified to take groups through the ATM caves, and they can only take a maximum of 10 people per guide, per day. As we were to see, this is because getting in to the cave is tricky business, and also because the artifacts are not behind any type of barriers. Limiting the number of guides and tourists each day ensure that the site stays in pristine condition.

We all piled in to Landy's Cruiser and were off through the Belizean jungle. The road was extremely rocky and rutted, and it took us about 45 minutes to travel less than 10 miles. Along the way were farms of teak and mahogany trees, and all kinds of beans/legumes. The landscape was very lush and green, even though this is the dry season.

We finally arrived at the parking lot for the cave, changed in to our hiking shoes and "wet clothes" for inside the cave, and put our gear in to dry bags. Then we were off for a 45 mile hike through the jungle. Landy warned us to walk single file behind him because the sides of the trail could have poisonous snakes. Great. As is my luck, snake sighting number two for this trip happened just minutes after he uttered that warning. Just as I was asking about what kinds of snakes were around, a rat snake (non-poisonous) dashed across the path hot on the tail of a small lizard. Landy informed me that I had summoned the snake by talking about it. Ok then, no more snake talk! The hike involved three river crossings (approximately 25 yards wide each). The water was fairly warm, perhaps 75-ish degrees, but had a decent current and was about crotch-high in some areas so keeping your balance was a bit challenging. Ivar knew much about the flora and fauna that we saw and heard (birds, mostly) so the trek went by quickly.

This is what the trail looked like. Was a nice easy hike.

We arrived at the picnic area just before the cave entrance and sat down to eat the lunches that were provided to us as part of the tour - a chicken sandwich, chips and a banana. Ivar also pulled out a loaf of freshly made banana bread for us to share. Once we had finished eating and carefully picked up and stowed all our trash, we strapped on our helmets and started toward the cave.

Us at the mouth to the ATM cave

After posing for photos at the entrance, it was time to go in. Landy reminded us that we would need to strictly follow his instructions to avoid being hurt, and to avoid damaging any of the precious artifacts inside. Then we headed to the water and in we went...

The only way in is to swim. The water here was deeper than we could touch. You can see the cave mouth on the right of the picture. The water was about 65 degrees, in case you are wondering. Brisk, in other words!

Almost immediately, we got the idea that this was not going to be a leisurely stroll. We had to climb from the deep water in the picture above, up a very large limestone boulder. From there, we followed the water through the cave. In total, the cave is approximately 5.3 kilometers (3.5 miles) long. However, only the guides and the archeologists assigned to the cave are permitted past "The Cathedral", approximately a half-mile in. The going was slow. The water ranged from knee deep to areas that you had to swim through. We were headed uphill the entire way in, and there was non-stop climbing over boulders. Luckily, the water formed many natural hand holds along the walls so there was often something to grip. The helmets came in handy as there were numerous times that you could hear a loud "thwack" followed by an "ouch" from one member of our party or another. I don't think anyone escaped a head bonk on this trip.

This was actually one of the easier areas to maneuver because the water was relatively shallow, and you could see the big rocks underneath. You had to be very careful not to twist an ankle or fall and gouge yourself on a sharp rock. Also, keep in mind that, without the head lamps, it is so dark in the cave that you can actually go blind from having your eyes open in there for too long. Ivar explained that this is because your rods continuously try to adjust to "night vision" mode, and will eventually become permanently damaged. He told us that if you are ever lost in a cave, you are to stay still with your eyes closed until someone finds you. Good tip!

Many times on this adventure we commented that this is not something any North American tourist operation would run. No number of waivers could make a outfitter, particularly in the United States, subject themselves to the litigation risk posed inside this cave. However, we are thrilled the Belizean government doesn't feel the same way! Landy told us that, last year, one of the guides and 4 tourists were trapped in the waterways by a flash flood. Fortunately, they made it to an area with a high ceiling, so were able to keep their heads above the water. There were there over 18 hours before the water receded enough for them to be rescued. After hearing this story, we were very glad this is the dry season!

Passages like this, where there was just enough room for your neck to squeeze through were not uncommon. Landy would say "Ok, duck down a little. Good. Now turn your head sideways, and come through." All this in nipple-high water while trying to balance along various boulders underneath.

After about 45 minutes, we arrived at the entrance to "The Cathedral". Or, better said, we arrived below the entrance to The Cathedral. Getting in involved a climb up what Landy called a Mayan elevator. Don't let the name fool you, it was strictly manual - a piece of limestone rock sticking up about 20 feet out of the water. Over the years, the water had formed some hand & foot holds so you were able to hoist yourself up on to the shelf after climbing up the rock. Again, no way this would happen in the US or Canada!

Once we got up to the entrance of The Cathedral, we had to remove our shoes and go the rest of the way in socks. Shoes come off because the area is considered sacred. Socks stay on so that the oil in your feet does not damage the limestone. You are told to bring socks specifically when you book the tour. After taking off our shoes we crawled through a rabbit-type hole in the rocks and emerged in to a massive room with ceilings that soared more than 40 feet high. The Cathedral is the area of the cave where prayers and religious ceremonies were conducted. The Mayan elite (wealthy members of the tribe, shamans and leaders only, no middle or lower class allowed) would come in to the caves to give thanks to the gods through bloodletting ceremonies during prosperous times, and to make more dramatic offerings (human sacrifice) during times of strife, such as drought or famine.

The entrance to The Cathedral. You can't tell from this picture, but it's a good 20 feet up to the first ledge.

The formations on the walls were amazing, though these photos don't do them justice.

They call this stalagmite formation "the nativity" - looks like it, no?!

We were surprised to see, almost immediately, many large clay pots scattered around the floor. The pottery was used for various activities such as cooking, storing food and water, and for bloodletting ceremonies. You can see from the pictures that many of the pots are undamaged; protected by the conditions in the cave. There were also molcajete, which are stones used for grinding corn. Where you see white calcification is where water has reached, however most of this area has remained relatively dry over the past 1100 years, because it is so high up in the cave.

This pot in the center was enormous. I could have easily crawled through it. These larger pots were used to catch the water that drips from the ceiling of the cave. The Mayans believed this water to be holy, as they thought it was sent from heaven.

On the side of this pot you can see the design of a monkey. The monkey symbolizes the celebrated Mayans who survived the great flood by turning in to monkeys and climbing up to the jungle canopy to escape.

Notice the sock feet? About 45 minutes of hiking over the limestone and boulders was done without shoes. Painful at times!

Finally, it was time to move to the last area of The Cathedral in which tourists are allowed - one of the areas where the human sacrifices were made. To get up to this area, we actually got a ladder - wow! However, right after we got to the top of the 15-foot ladder we had to climb down the other side of the rock face without one. Both up and down this area we are in sock feet!


When we came in to the area where the human sacrifices were made, Landy explained to us that it was a great honor to be chosen, and that all those sacrificed were volunteers. I'm skeptical. He explained that the archeologist believe that the initial humans sacrificed were men in their 30s or 40s (again, would have been from the wealthy or elite class of the tribe) at the beginning of what was to become one of the most difficult times for the Mayan people (the late 800's). During this time, food was scarce and a drought was beginning. As times got more difficult, they tried sacrificing teens, women, and even infants to try and please the gods and turn their circumstances around. In the early 900s, the Mayans were starving despite their frequent sacrifices. For this reason they abandoned the cave, believing it to no longer be sacred.

This is the skull of a sacrificed man. Archeologists believe him to be in his early 40s. Can you believe how close we could get to it? As long as we didn't touch anything, we could get amazingly close. Again, no barriers except for red tape on the floor to alert you to watch your step around these priceless artifacts.



This is the remains of a young boy, estimated to be in his early teens. You can't tell from the picture but his arms and hands are behind his spine, meaning that his arms were tied behind his back before he was killed. The Mayans used strangulation or cranial trauma (a big sharp rock to the temple) for sacrifice killings. It is unknown if the latter was an instantaneous death or not.

Finally, at the end of the area we were allowed in to, is the only female sacrifice victim found in the caves. They refer to her as the crystal maiden because her skeleton has been covered with minerals that shine in the light. She is believed to be in her late teens, and she was strangled. Beyond her are the infant remains, but we were not permitted in that area.

From this point, we gratefully returned to our shoes and hiked back out of the cave the way we came. We were relatively quick to get back to the parking lot where we changed in to dry clothes. Finally, we rode in the Land Cruiser back over that rough road to the highway. By the time we got to Ivar's car, it was 4:30 pm. The last water taxi to Caye Caulker leaves Belize City at 5:30 pm. That would be ok if it weren't a little better than 60 miles back to the water taxi station. Fortunately, Ivar was up for the challenge, and we hit the edge of the city at 5:19. Shortly after that, he called the owner of the water taxi to tell them we would be a few minutes late, and to ask them to please wait for us. It's good to have friends in high places, I guess. We screeched up to the dock at 5:33 pm, and raced on to the taxi just in the nick of time!

Back on Caye Caulker an hour later, we picked up our bikes and swung by Anna's for more pupusas (yes, we're officially addicted)! Here's a picture of her at her little stand. Sorry it's a little blurry - not sure why!




Now we're home, exhausted but exhilarated by this amazing day. If you ever come to Belize, don't miss this. It is, truly, the most incredible thing we have ever done in all our travels!