25-cent martinis & things that go bump in the night

I can't believe we've been here for 3 full days, already.  We still have three more days, but I'm starting to get a little panicked that we won't fit everything in.  And by "everything" I, of course, mean The List.  The good news is, we did check off four places today.  I'd call that a win!  The bad news is, there are many, many left.  I guess when I was planning I thought we'd be here for a month and would need at least six meals a day.  

We started off our morning at Deja Vu - a dump of a bar that is open 24-hours a day and is known to serve a great breakfast and an extra-spicy Bloody Mary to locals.  We arrived about 8 am and made ourselves at home with the small gathering of folks at the bar and the video poker machines.  I'm am fairly confident that we were the only two people in the place (the waitress was a maybe) who weren't paid for our services the night before, but everyone was certainly friendly.   We ordered a couple of egg sandwiches to go with our Bloody Mary's, and did not have to wait long to indulge.  The Bloody's were extra spicy and filled with pickled green beans.  The egg sandwiches were buttery and crispy-toasted on a flat-top with runny eggs and lots of cheese.  I can see why this place is popular with the hangover crowd.   Check one off The List.  

After breakfast, we met up with our tour guide, Melissa, for the first of our two tours today.  In researching our trip here, we came across a company called "Free Tours by Foot".  The premise of the company is that you pay what you feel the tour is worth at the end.  Basically, the guides work for tips, rather than charging a fee up front.  The first tour was of the St. Louis Cemetery #1; famous for housing the tomb of Marie Laveau, the famous Voodoo Priestess from the 1800's.   I feel compelled to confess my love of cemeteries to all of you, and to admit that I will visit a cemetery every chance I get.  Even as a kid, I would ride my bike out to the town cemetery and spend hours reading the tombstones.  I was fascinated with what might have happened to people and would calculate their ages to determine ways they may have died.  I feel much better now, having got that off my chest.  You may, or may not.  Onward...  

We all know that, because of the high water table, New Orleans cemeteries are above-ground.  What I did not know was that, apparently, this took a while (and many floating coffins) to catch on here.  They finally came around in the early 1800's.  In addition to looking cool, the crypts also allow the city to utilize a very small amount of space for cemeteries by burying many people from the same family in one small crypt.  This is accomplished through a natural cremation process that takes place when the heat inside of the crypt combines with the gases given off by the decomposing body.  After about a year, the body and the casket are reduced to ashes and a small amount of debris.  The larger bits of debris (mostly pieces of the coffin) are removed and the ashes and small bits of bone are pushed in to the back of the crypt to make room for the next person.  See?  I told you cemeteries are fascinating!   

Wall crypts, or "ovens" as they are referred to because of what happens inside of them.
Interestingly, this section was originally 4-rows tall.
The first row has sunk in to the mucky soil here.

I love the look of above-ground cemeteries.

The tomb of Marie Laveau - the famous Voodoo Priestess

We ducked out of the tour a few minutes early and rushed back to the apartment to change for our Commander's Palace reservation.  For those of you who don't know, Commander's Palace was opened in the 1880's, and has a colorful history.  For many years, the riverboat captains would come there for a meal and other services in the private dining rooms on the second floor, while families dined on the first floor.  In more recent times, most big-name New Orleans chefs (for example, Paul Prudhomme & Emeril Lagasse) are trained in the CP kitchen.  It is one of the most recognized buildings in New Orleans, and known by foodies for is cuisine and outstanding service.  Chris & Cliff joined us and Chris & I were giddy at the prospect of this meal. 

When we arrived, I stated my reservation and we were seated promptly.  Our waiter referred to me several times as Miss Karin - delightful!  As I mentioned, CP is known for it's high standard of service, and this is immediately apparent.  As we were seated, the waiter noticed that both Cliff and I were wearing dark colored pants and quickly swapped out our white napkins for black ones.  "The white ones are supposed to be lint-free," he stated with an exasperated look, "but they are not."   Chris & Andrew, wearing light-colored pants, were permitted to use the white ones.   

We were presented with the wine list, and also verbally given a run-down of the 25-cent martinis.  Yes, you heard me right...25 cents.  They do have a 3-drink/person maximum because, as the menu says, you don't need any more than three.  Very practical advice - between the 4 of us, we had 8 martinis, which came to a grand total of $2. 

Now, on to lunch!  We spent a fair amount of time discussing our order choices.  I do love that Chris & Cliff are game to order with the intention of getting to taste everyone else's.  Not everyone, I've learned, is thrilled to have you stick your spoon in their soup!   I ordered the two-course lunch special with turtle soup (yes, it's made from turtles), and the Commander's Mixed Grill.  Sounds like a flavor of cat food, I know, but it was lovely.  Andrew had the same special but chose oyster and bacon chowder and shrimp & grits.   Chris had the gumbo to start, and it was one of the most amazing things I've ever eaten.  Seriously - I'll remember it for a long time!  We also had a few desserts between us and the boys agreed that the cheesecake was the best one they've had.  I do not like cheesecake, so will take their word for it.  I loved the apple and root beer strudel - to die for.  I only took pictures of my own food (except for dessert).  Sorry. 

The famous turtle soup.  Yum!  

My entree - grilled, smoked sausage; creole shredded beef & a calas (friend rice ball)

Note the cost of 8 cocktails - $2!

As we were eating our entrees, I noticed that tables around us were having their leftovers returned to them in foil packets shaped like birds.  I was immediately smitten and, though I promptly threw it in the trash after we left the restaurant (I don't eat leftovers.  I know, but I just never get around to it.)  I asked to take mine home.  My whole life I have wanted to have my leftovers packaged in a foil swan, and today that dream came true!

My first foil swan!   Also, not all of those glasses are mine, I swear.

After lunch, we posed for a photo in front of the famous sign.  Check two off The List. 

Cliff, Chris, Andrew & I

After we left CP, we returned to the apartment for a brief reprieve before meeting up with Diane, Marj, Corey & Mario for dinner.  Number three on The List for today was Coop's, which is known for fried chicken.  Coop's is another dive of a place, and they actually cook the food in the alley/courtyard behind the restaurant.  Oh well, the chicken is delicious!    Finally, we wandered over to Cafe du Monde for the famous beignets & an iced cafe au lait.  You have to eat these little suckers very carefully.  Exhaling at the wrong time, or even the faintest laugh will cover your dining companions in powdered sugar.  Black clothing is discouraged, for obvious reasons.  

Now, literally bursting at the seams, we made our way across Jackson Square to St. Louis Cathedral to meet up with our final tour of the day - ghost tour!  Same company (Free Tours by Foot) and, coincidentally, same guide (Melissa).   We spent the better part of two very enjoyable hours walking and listening to all of the tales of murder, hauntings, ghosts and pirates.  A great way to end the day and, sadly, burn off only a tiny bit of what we ate today! 

Beignets!